Thursday 18 July 2013

Walks in & around the Valley

It is said that walking is the best way to explore a place at ease and is one of the most accessible therapeutic forms of exercise. A walk through the woods admiring the bounty of nature at leisure, sprinkled with quaint colorful villages, has its own sweet rewards. Not only is this, walking is the easiest way to maintain a healthy lifestyle in the merciless work schedules of the corporate jungle.

There are numerous half day walks to full day hikes to challenge oneself during an active holiday in this Himalayan valley. Welsh writer Gwyn Thomas once said “But the beauty is in the walking -- we are betrayed by destinations”, but these places promise to differ.

1 – Half day hike to Bandal Village
The walk takes you upstream (from the cottage) along Tirthan River for 10 minutes and then uphill for an hour after moving on the trail going to right. Major portion of uphill walk is through orchards. Bandal Village has got two temples and famous one being of goddess Bhagwati ( Durga). Temple of Bhagwati is located in between the village houses with a courtyard outside which is the venue of village fair taking place in April for 2 days ( between 16 – 19 depending on Hindu calendar dates). For the return you can take (around 40 minutes) recently built village road which passes close to the cottage. On the return you get great views of Great Himalayan National Park, Tirthan Valley and the confluence of Tirthan and Palachan River at Goshaini town.

Hike start/ end point: - Cottage (Goshaini)
Grade: - Easy

Village ground and the goddess Durga temple hidden behind the houses.


Village and the temple seen from above.


Scene from a village fair which takes place in April every year.

2 – Half day hike to the waterfall
Drive for around 3 Kms downstream along the Tirthan River till a village called Gahidhar which is ahead of Nagni village. Hike on the small trail going left through Gahidhar village and agricultural fields for 35 minutes till the waterfall which is around 150 Feet high depending on the season and the water level. After spending some time at the fall, walk down to the road for around 25 minutes and drive back to Goshaini.

Hike start/ end point: - Gahidhar village which is 3 km downstream from Goshaini
Grade: - Easy


Trail going down to the waterfall.


Next to the waterfall.

3- Walk to The Great Himalayan National Park Entrance gate (Full day)
Start from Goshaini and walk through the leveled trail for 8 Km along the Tirthan River towards The Great Himalayan National Park entrance gate up to Hippo Falls passing through the villages of Ropa and Kharungcha. This walk offers good bird watching and photography opportunity along the Tirthan River. The return is on the same trail.

Start/ end point: - Cottage (Goshaini)
Grade: - Easy


Ropa Village on the way.


Crossing a bridge over the stream.


Tirthan River flowing through the Eco zone area.


An abandoned water mill on the way.


Resting by Tirthan River at Hippo Fall near the entrance gate.

4 - Dev Kanda Temple Walk (Full day)
Around 4 – 5 Hrs uphill and strenuous walk to the Dev Kanda temple on the highest ridge in the valley offers fantastic views of snow covered peaks, Himalayan forests and the meandering Tirthan River winding its way through the valley below. The spot is also an ideal place for overnight camping and fantastic sunset and sunrise views.

Start/ end point: - Cottage (Goshaini)
Grade: - Strenuous. It’s uphill and on the trail where sun hits you directly but the views from the top is worth the effort.


The Valley from the trail going to the top.

The trail winding its way to the top.

The Forest God at the ridge.

View of the ridge from the cottage in the winters.

View of the Cottage and Tirthan River from the trail.
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Views of the parallel ridge towards Great Himalayan National Park.


5 – Exploring the Villages of the Valley
Goshaini – Tinder - Ropa – Talinga - Shalinga – Pekhri – Goshaini (Full day)

If you wish to spend more time exploring the villages further then you can go on this hike to explore 4 – 5 villages which fall in Eco zone of The Great Himalayan National Park. Apart from photography and good views, this walk offers you the opportunity to get glimpses of rural life in the hills and witness the traditional architecture. Walk from Goshaini on a gradual uphill trail comprising of pine, Deodar and rhododendron for an hour & 20 minutes till Tinder village and walk down to Ropa village, which is on the banks of Tirthan River for 30 minutes. From Ropa village walk along the Tirthan River for 20 minutes, cross to the other side of the river and walk for 10 minutes to Talinga village which is surrounded by oak trees. From Talinga walk to Shalinga village on an uphill trail for 30 minutes. Walk further to next village for 45 minutes which is Nahin. From Nahin village head on a leveled trail to Pekhri village which is connected by a motor able village road. From Pekhri village either walk to Goshaini (around an hour and half) on the broad motor able road passing through Manhar village on the way or drive to Goshaini.

Start/ end point: - Cottage (Goshaini)
Grade: - Moderate to strenuous as it is a long day of walking and you need to start a bit early in the morning.


6 - To the Villages of Sharchi and Jamala (Full day)
Walk straight up from the cottage on the recently constructed village road ( if you wish to avoid the road then you can take several short cuts on the way) passing through Bandal and Basari villages. The walk starts from the base of the valley and takes you through Cheer pine, Blue pine and deodar forest with great views of the valley below and the Great Himalayan National park ranges. The village road ( which is around 12 Km) ends after walking for around 2 & half hours and another walk of 30 minutes through apple orchard and agricultural fields bring you to Sharchi village which has still retained the traditional look with the local architecture and the agriculture as the prime activity.

From Sharchi village walk for 25 minutes to the next village of Jamala (2700 M) which is at the edge of thick deodar forest and has got huge traditional wooden houses. Close to the village is also a big ground/ meadow of Badasari where Iris flowers are in full bloom during June – August months and is a perfect spot for overnight camping with stunning views. From Jamala you can also go to the Lambhari ridge which connects Tirthan Valley and saraj Valley and takes around two nights stay to reach at Jalori pass stopping at Lambhari ridge and Saryolsar Lake on the way.

Hike start/ end point: - Cottage (Goshaini)
Grade: - Medium

Path going to Jamala village.

One of the wooden house in the villages.

Villages of Jamala & Sarchi with the perfect view.

Views from the camping ground above.

The Camping ground above jamala village.


7 - Shringi Rishi Temple & Chehni Kothi (Full day)
Drive to Sai Ropa ( which is 4 Km downstream from Goshaini) and hike uphill for approx 4 hrs passing through thick forest of pine, blue pine, Himalayan cedar and a laid – back Bhiyar hamlet before reaching 350 yrs old and 10 stories high tower of Chehni village. It was the fortified residence of Rana Dhadhia. Initially the tower had 15 storeys but after the earthquake of 1905 only 10 storeys could survive. The only access to the inside of this oriental scraper is a thickly cut log in the form of stairs. The fort also has a 400 meter tunnel (which is now closed) and a Krishna Temple on one storey.

Walk down to the village road passing through temple of Lord Shringa Rishi (who is the ruling deity of Banjar valley). A fair is held every year in the month of May at Banjar town in his honor. According to the legends associated with Ramayana, it was a privilege of Rishi Shringi from the Banjar valley who was the sage at the ‘Putreshtiyajna’ of Raja Dashratha during the age of Satyug. Thus Lord Rama was born as a result of the prayers by Shringi Rishi. Walk down to the village road for 20 minutes and drive back to Goshaini for around 18 Kms. 

If you do not wish to do long hike then you can drive up to this point (road head below Shringa Rishi temple) from Goshaini (around 18 Kms one way), hike to the tower (with temple on the way up or down) for an hour from the village road and return back to the same point to drive back to Goshaini.

Start/ end point: - Sairopa & Shringa Rishi temple road head if you wish to do long hike.
                         Shringa Rishi temple road head if you wish to hike less and drive more. 
Grade: - Easy to moderate















8 - Jalori Pass, Saryolsar Lake & Raghupur Garh (Full day)
Drive through Banjar town, Jibhi, Ghayagi and Shoja village to reach Jalori pass, which is around 3250 Mt high and 30 km from Goshaini. Pass connects inner and outer Seraj region along with Shimla - Kullu area and offers fantastic views of Dhauladhar and Kinnaur range. From the pass there are options of walk to Saryolsar Lake and the ruined fort of Raghupur.

A gentle / leveled walk of 6 km through forest dominated by oak trees leads from Jalori pass to Saryolsar Lake (3,100 m). Close to the lake is the temple of goddess 'Buddhi Nagin'. Numerous pilgrims trek to this lake from the surrounding villages to pray for good quality ghee (clarified butter). They also offer clarified butter to the goddess. As per the local belief no one has ever found a leaf floating in the lake although the lake is surrounded by many trees. The return is on the same trail.

The ruined fort of Raghupur Garh sits on a meadow which is 2 Kms west of Jalori pass and offers a 360 degree view of the Himalayas, Dhauladhar and Kinnaur ranges. The local people believe that the Fort was built by the king of Mandi province as a safe house in case of attack by enemies or an escape to get away from the eyes of his family and subjects. The fort is surrounded by wide trenches and there is a small pond inside. The walls of the fort are marked by bullet holes. The meadows also happen to be the favorite ground of local shepherds from close by villages.


It is no possible to cover both the places/ walks on the same day.

Start/ end point: - Jalori Pass (which is 30 km from Goshaini)
Grade: - Moderate
















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